Internationally renowned facialist, Ingrid Seaburn, shares the best skincare actives to power up your routine.
Behind every new formula, trend and buzzword are skincare actives revolutionising our routines. From softening fine lines to brightening pigmentation or calming sensitive skin, skincare actives brings us closer to our skin goals – and a more complicated routine.
We’ve enlisted celebrity facialist (and previous David Jones Beauty Awards judge), Ingrid Seaburn, to break down the best skincare actives and how to create a streamlined routine tailored to your concerns.
Step 1: Warm Up
Before treating your concerns with actives, refine your skin with an enzyme-, alpha-hydroxy-acid- (AHA) or beta-hydroxy-acid- (BHA) based exfoliator, says Seaburn. “A chemical exfoliator is the only way to address dead skin cells by chemically dissolving them,” she advises. This often overlooked step will prime your skin to make the most of every active ingredient that follows.
For lacklustre complexions reach for an enzyme-powered exfoliator like Dermalogica’s Daily Microfoliant. To smooth uneven texture, try AHAs in Liberty Belle Rx’s and KORA Organic’s formulas. Or, to combat breakouts and blackheads, look for BHAs like salicylic acid or a targeted spot treatment by Ultraceuticals.
Step 2: Get Active
After evaluating your skin goals, zero in on your hero active. “Actives are ingredients that reach your dermis in the deeper layers of your skin,” says Seaburn. “They actively change your skin on a cellular level. The most effective way to apply actives is with a serum,” explains Seaburn, “and they’re an investment in your skin.” And for science-backed, visible results, retinol, vitamin C and niacinamide are Seaburn’s personal power players.
Experiencing fine lines and wrinkles? Try retinol
A derivative of vitamin A, “Retinol is a powerful active that increases skin cell turnover and softens fine lines,” explains Seaburn. In an anti-ageing skincare routine, this means a smoother, firmer-looking complexion. For those prone to breakouts, retinol speeds up skin’s renewal to help minimise the occurrence of pimples and post-inflammatory pigmentation spots left in their wake.
Seeing dark spots? Try vitamin C
To brighten pigmentation and a dull complexion, try vitamin C. As an antioxidant, vitamin C fights skin aggressors and free radicals caused by factors like the sun and pollution. This helps protect skin against signs of pigmentation and ageing, and even brightens complexion by inhibiting the production of skin’s natural pigment, melanin.
When it comes to your routine, “some people say you should do vitamin C in the morning and vitamin A at night,” says Seaburn, “but there’s no hard nd fast rule.” While a morning application of vitamin C may help defend skin during the day, “if your serum is formulated with a good active, it doesn’t really matter when you apply it,” she explains. “As long as you’re doing it consistently over that week, you’ll see results.”
Damaged your skin barrier? Try niacinamide
If you’re experiencing breakouts or irritation, Seaburn recommends trying niacinamide. It’s an anti-inflammatory active that soothes sensitivity and supports skin health for lasting smooth, clear skin.
Step 3: Cool Down with Hyaluronic Acid
“Hyaluronic acid is not an active – it helps your skin hold water,” explains Seaburn. “But it’s a very important part of your routine.” As a hydrator and plumper, hyaluronic acid sits on the epidermis – the top layer of our skin – “and the only job it’s got is to hydrate your skin; to help it retain water for longer periods of time throughout the day,” says Seaburn.
While hyaluronic acid is naturally present in our skin and body, “as we get older our ability to produce hyaluronic acid decreases. So, we have to replace it,” says Seaburn. This is where a hyaluronic acid serum or gel-based moisturiser comes into play. Just don’t undo all of your hard work by skipping moisturiser – “always moisturise after applying hyaluronic acid,” says Seaburn. “There’s a theory that it can have a reverse effect and pull hydration from the skin if not used properly.”
Step 4: Work Smarter, Not Harder
If your skincare routine is getting longer and longer, Seaburn suggests ‘cocktailing’ your serums. “Often people say they’re confused about what they should be doing and it gets overwhelming,” says Seaburn. But with her streamlined skincare philosophy, “You can go pump, pump, pump and do it all together.”
It’s one simple step that will maximise your results and help you reach your skin goals, fast.